DISCLAIMER

This blog, "Vanuatu Adventures", is simply my personal reflection and in no way represents the opinions or beliefs of the Peace Corps or the US Government. Enjoy - and I hope to hear from you!

Thursday, December 23, 2010

AELAN KRISMAS

MI WANTEM WISHEM YUFALA WAN BIGFALA MERI KRISMAS!!
(I want to wish you a big Merry Christmas!)


There are many wonderful things about an “aelan Krismas” (island Christmas)…there’s no snow to shovel…avocados are buttery and ripe…sweet, juicy pineapples are in season…and I can sit on my patio in the midst of huge, colorful ginger flowers and butterflies. Notice that I didn’t mention the huge mosquitoes, African snails, or flying ants – that’s because I’m trying not to notice those **!@@ things and instead count my blessings!!

ACTIV Association – the organization that I’m working for – has been holding its annual Krismas Eksibison in downtown Port Vila at the Alliance de Francais (a facility next to the French Embassy that features the work of local artisans). I’ve been working with a colleague to set up the displays of hand-woven baskets, bags, backpacks and mats – and other locally-grown or made things like honey, vanilla, soaps, nuts, and jewelry. So, it’s been kind of fun meeting lots of people – not just locals, but tourists primarily from Australia and New Zealand as they shop for Christmas gifts or souvenirs to take home. An Australian cruise line regularly comes to Vanuatu, so it’s been interesting meeting and talking with the folks from “down under”. Given the fact that Vanuatu is an international tax haven, there are a surprising number of business people from all corners of the world, so you really never know who you might bump into. The Eksibison (exhibition) continues through New Year’s Eve – and then it’s back to business as usual (whatever that might be!).

Christmas Eve was declared a national holiday by the government earlier this week, so yesterday was an incredible day in downtown Port Vila. There were so many vehicles on the main street that it looked and sounded like an island version of New York City. At one point, the driver of a van simply laid on his horn and careened up onto the sidewalk scattering people in all directions. So, no matter where you are, there are crazy drivers.

There was also a big parade down the main street yesterday morning comprised primarily of several hundred young people who have converged on Efate for an annual Evangelical camporee. Youth are here from Tonga, Samoa and Fiji. I find it interesting that the event is planned over the Christmas holiday – it just seems odd to me that these kids aren’t home with their families. But, in talking to them, they seemed really excited to be here and weren’t dismayed at all at being away from home for the holidays.

Port Vila is known for its party atmosphere over Christmas and New Year’s. In fact, the Peace Corps really emphasizes that fact with a caution to all volunteers to be wary of going out at night. Tusker, the locally-brewed beer, pretty much takes over, and I guess it can get pretty crazy. The other thing I’ve noticed here is the prevalence of fireworks. In fact, there was a full-page spread in yesterday’s paper reminding everybody that fireworks are legal and inviting one and all to have a great time with them. Although I’ve seen a few pretty fireworks, I think the ones that are really popular aren’t things like fountains – instead, it’s the big cherry bomb-type that boom really loud. Last night my neighbors just down the hill had quite a round – it sounded like a small war was breaking out!!

I’ve seen very, very few Christmas decorations around. In fact, I think I’ve only seen one house with lights – and just a few small things on some of the lamp posts in downtown Port Vila. There are some decorations for sale in the stores – but nothing like you’d see in the states. In many ways, I kind of like it because it feels more like people are enjoying the spirit of Christmas and not getting so danged caught up in all the things that really don’t last anyway.

I’ll be house sitting from Christmas Day through New Year’s Day, so Jane – one of my Peace Corps colleagues – is joining me there for dinner on Christmas Day. The house I’m staying at actually has an oven, so we’re taking advantage of that by roasting a chicken with stuffing, baking a lemon cake for dessert, and making mashed potatoes and fresh green beans to round out the meal. And of course, you can count on the fact that we’ll be popping the cork on at least one bottle of French red wine somewhere along the way…it certainly makes cooking more fun!!

So, as I sit here on a balmy Christmas Eve afternoon, I’m reflecting on many of the Christmas joys that I’ve been blessed with throughout the years – and learning to savor and enjoy an island Christmas. Yes, in many ways it looks and feels different – but when Silent Night is played, it really reminds us that we’re all going to be looking at the same moon on Christmas Eve and that we’re really not that far apart in many ways.

MERRY CHRISTMAS…WITH LOVE…FROM ME TO YOU!!



















Thursday, December 16, 2010

GROCERY SHOPPING

Grocery shopping can be quite an adventure here in Port Vila. Now you have to understand that I was realllllly spoiled when I lived in Denver. All I had to do was walk out my front door, make a right – and walk about a block to a wonderful, full-service Albertson’s store – not to mention Lowry Liquors just down the street – as well as the Savory Spice Shop just across the street from Lowry Liquors. Oh, and let’s not forget the phenomenal purchasing power I had at COSTCO!! Well, things are a little different here – not necessarily better or worse…just different!



First of all, my shopping habits have drastically changed. Since I have no car and I’m about a 40-minute walk from the grocery store, I shop several times each week – usually after work just before heading home. Several times a week I walk down to the “Mama’s Market” along the Port Vila seafront. The Mama’s Market is open round-the-clock from 6 am Monday through noon on Saturday. It’s called the “Mama’s Market” because it is a huge open-air market comprised of tables laden with fresh produce grown in the rural villages of Vanuatu. Families harvest only their finest produce – and only the produce that is in excess of what they need to feed their families – and then the Mamas bring it into “Vila” to sell. I love to go to the market because I have a chance of seeing some of the Mamas from my village of Ekipe. The villages take turns to provide an equal opportunity for everybody – so Ekipe is only there about every third week. At the Mama’s Market you can find just about everything that grows in the islands: bunches of bananas for about $1, island cabbage, manioc, tomatoes, cucumbers, pineapple, mangoes, papaya (popo), taro, grapefruit (pamplemousse), kumala (kind of like a sweet potato), and sometimes regular potatoes. The prices are typically much better than you can find in the regular supermarket here – plus you’re assured of a big smile and “tankieu tumas” from one of the Mamas. When the Mamas come to town for the market they stay there round the clock – sleeping in shifts, babies in tow. So, it really is quite a commitment – and it seems to be something they really look forward to. Of course, the big bonus is you get fresh, reasonably-priced produce – and everything is organic. You can also buy an island breakfast (bread, egg, coffee) for about $3 – or the ever-present lap-lap for lunch or dinner. Sometimes they have large, whole fried fish for about $3 too. So, it’s quite a sight to behold.


For other things I head to the AuBon Marche. There are several around town – two very close to my office, and another one -- known as AuBon Marche #2 -- about a 20-minute walk away. Of course, the one that’s a little further away is the best, so I usually hike up there. I’ve never seen a grocery ad or flyer in the paper, nor have I ever seen ANYTHING listed as being on SALE in the store! AuBon Marche #2 (AuBon Numbatwo) is kind of like a mini super-Target. It has everything from bolts of fabric to fresh meats to clothing to French wines. I bought nearly everything I needed for my apartment at the AuBon #2. However, I stopped short when it came to any kind of appliance. As an example, crock pots are $140.00, toasters anywhere from $85-100, and a small Teflon frying pan was $35. So, I have a small frying pan, a saucepan, and one slightly larger pot to cook in. But, they do me just fine!


I was just there yesterday evening to do some shopping, and on my walk up there I thought I’d look to see if they had cranberry juice. It’s been so hot here that I thought a glass of cold cranberry juice in the morning would be great. Well, the good news is they had the Ocean Spray cranberry juice – but the bad news is that it was nearly $12.50 per bottle. No, not $2.50 – but $12.50!! Suffice it to say, that I settled instead for an Australian brand of tomato juice! But on the other hand, I can buy fresh croissants (REAL croissants) for 40 cents each, as well as French Au Pain Chocolat for about 70 cents each. Not to mention the fact that I can get a package of 12 mosquito coils to burn in my apartment for just 70 cents!! On my first visit, I decided to buy some sliced ham in the deli – but I had to pull out my cell phone to do a quick conversion from kilograms to pounds so that I knew how much to ask for. The other surprising thing is that eggs are not refrigerated here. They are simply on the grocery shelf – and if you plan to use them within a week or so, you don’t have to refrigerate them when you get them home. Go figure!! There are no dairies in Vanuatu, so all milk is the boxed milk on the grocery shelf – but it tastes like regular milk once it’s chilled. Good canned tuna is about $7.00 per can – but organic beef and veal is comparably priced to what’s available in the states. That’s because the beef is produced within the islands. So, the import taxes really are a killer on most grocery items. I’m beginning to understand the value of lap-lap in the villages – no need to shop, just go to the garden and you have dinner!!

CLEAN FEET

I was sitting here in my little Port Vila apartment last night looking at my feet and realized just how much I miss clean feet….yes, that wasn’t a typo, and I haven’t totally lost my mind…oh what I wouldn’t give to simply have clean feet on a day-to-day basis!! Just a few days before leaving home I treated myself to a manicure and pedicure for my big adventure – little did I realize that I definitely should have appreciated those sparkling toes – and toenails - much more than I did!!



It all started in Ekipe Village. First of all, the only shoes anybody wears here are flip-flops, Chacos, or something similar. I do have a pair of hiking shoes, but on a day-to-day basis, it’s just too darned hot – and they would be wet most of the time, so day in and day out it’s flip-flops for me too! Anyway, in Ekipe there were no sidewalks – just overgrown or muddy dirt paths throughout the village. Oh yes, I scrubbed my feet – but without really hot water, they never really looked clean. So, when I moved into Port Vila, I thought one of the “perks” would be clean feet! What I didn’t realize is that much of my walking is still on muddy paths or shoulders – or on dirty, flooded sidewalks and streets. So, I’m still stuck with dirty feet no matter what!


So, as a result I have taken to soaking my big Size 10s in a bucket filled with hot water, laundry detergent – and a shot of bleach just for good measure. So, I soak and soak – and scrub with both a nail brush and regular scrub brush. Last night I was so excited to see clean feet emerge from the bucket that I actually texted my fellow Peace Corps friend, Jane, to tell her that my feet were the cleanest they’d been in 3 months. She asked that I send a picture so she, too, could see what clean feet really look like! Ahhh, the things we take for granted.


Anyway, it’s back in the bucket with my toes tonight to start all over again…but on the other hand, while my feet are soaking I can watch the sunset with a glass of red wine – and watch the papayas ripen on the tree just outside my bedroom window. So, i don't know...maybe clean feet are just over-rated after all!!!