GROCERY SHOPPING

Grocery shopping can be quite an adventure here in Port Vila. Now you have to understand that I was realllllly spoiled when I lived in Denver. All I had to do was walk out my front door, make a right – and walk about a block to a wonderful, full-service Albertson’s store – not to mention Lowry Liquors just down the street – as well as the Savory Spice Shop just across the street from Lowry Liquors. Oh, and let’s not forget the phenomenal purchasing power I had at COSTCO!! Well, things are a little different here – not necessarily better or worse…just different!



First of all, my shopping habits have drastically changed. Since I have no car and I’m about a 40-minute walk from the grocery store, I shop several times each week – usually after work just before heading home. Several times a week I walk down to the “Mama’s Market” along the Port Vila seafront. The Mama’s Market is open round-the-clock from 6 am Monday through noon on Saturday. It’s called the “Mama’s Market” because it is a huge open-air market comprised of tables laden with fresh produce grown in the rural villages of Vanuatu. Families harvest only their finest produce – and only the produce that is in excess of what they need to feed their families – and then the Mamas bring it into “Vila” to sell. I love to go to the market because I have a chance of seeing some of the Mamas from my village of Ekipe. The villages take turns to provide an equal opportunity for everybody – so Ekipe is only there about every third week. At the Mama’s Market you can find just about everything that grows in the islands: bunches of bananas for about $1, island cabbage, manioc, tomatoes, cucumbers, pineapple, mangoes, papaya (popo), taro, grapefruit (pamplemousse), kumala (kind of like a sweet potato), and sometimes regular potatoes. The prices are typically much better than you can find in the regular supermarket here – plus you’re assured of a big smile and “tankieu tumas” from one of the Mamas. When the Mamas come to town for the market they stay there round the clock – sleeping in shifts, babies in tow. So, it really is quite a commitment – and it seems to be something they really look forward to. Of course, the big bonus is you get fresh, reasonably-priced produce – and everything is organic. You can also buy an island breakfast (bread, egg, coffee) for about $3 – or the ever-present lap-lap for lunch or dinner. Sometimes they have large, whole fried fish for about $3 too. So, it’s quite a sight to behold.


For other things I head to the AuBon Marche. There are several around town – two very close to my office, and another one -- known as AuBon Marche #2 -- about a 20-minute walk away. Of course, the one that’s a little further away is the best, so I usually hike up there. I’ve never seen a grocery ad or flyer in the paper, nor have I ever seen ANYTHING listed as being on SALE in the store! AuBon Marche #2 (AuBon Numbatwo) is kind of like a mini super-Target. It has everything from bolts of fabric to fresh meats to clothing to French wines. I bought nearly everything I needed for my apartment at the AuBon #2. However, I stopped short when it came to any kind of appliance. As an example, crock pots are $140.00, toasters anywhere from $85-100, and a small Teflon frying pan was $35. So, I have a small frying pan, a saucepan, and one slightly larger pot to cook in. But, they do me just fine!


I was just there yesterday evening to do some shopping, and on my walk up there I thought I’d look to see if they had cranberry juice. It’s been so hot here that I thought a glass of cold cranberry juice in the morning would be great. Well, the good news is they had the Ocean Spray cranberry juice – but the bad news is that it was nearly $12.50 per bottle. No, not $2.50 – but $12.50!! Suffice it to say, that I settled instead for an Australian brand of tomato juice! But on the other hand, I can buy fresh croissants (REAL croissants) for 40 cents each, as well as French Au Pain Chocolat for about 70 cents each. Not to mention the fact that I can get a package of 12 mosquito coils to burn in my apartment for just 70 cents!! On my first visit, I decided to buy some sliced ham in the deli – but I had to pull out my cell phone to do a quick conversion from kilograms to pounds so that I knew how much to ask for. The other surprising thing is that eggs are not refrigerated here. They are simply on the grocery shelf – and if you plan to use them within a week or so, you don’t have to refrigerate them when you get them home. Go figure!! There are no dairies in Vanuatu, so all milk is the boxed milk on the grocery shelf – but it tastes like regular milk once it’s chilled. Good canned tuna is about $7.00 per can – but organic beef and veal is comparably priced to what’s available in the states. That’s because the beef is produced within the islands. So, the import taxes really are a killer on most grocery items. I’m beginning to understand the value of lap-lap in the villages – no need to shop, just go to the garden and you have dinner!!