AELAN KRISMAS

MI WANTEM WISHEM YUFALA WAN BIGFALA MERI KRISMAS!!

(I want to wish you a big Merry Christmas!)

There are many wonderful things about an “aelan Krismas” (island Christmas)…there’s no snow to shovel…avocados are buttery and ripe…sweet, juicy pineapples are in season…and I can sit on my patio in the midst of huge, colorful ginger flowers and butterflies. Notice that I didn’t mention the huge mosquitoes, African snails, or flying ants – that’s because I’m trying not to notice those **!@@ things and instead count my blessings!!

ACTIV Association – the organization that I’m working for – has been holding its annual Krismas Eksibison in downtown Port Vila at the Alliance de Francais (a facility next to the French Embassy that features the work of local artisans). I’ve been working with a colleague to set up the displays of hand-woven baskets, bags, backpacks and mats – and other locally-grown or made things like honey, vanilla, soaps, nuts, and jewelry. So, it’s been kind of fun meeting lots of people – not just locals, but tourists primarily from Australia and New Zealand as they shop for Christmas gifts or souvenirs to take home. An Australian cruise line regularly comes to Vanuatu, so it’s been interesting meeting and talking with the folks from “down under”. Given the fact that Vanuatu is an international tax haven, there are a surprising number of business people from all corners of the world, so you really never know who you might bump into. The Eksibison (exhibition) continues through New Year’s Eve – and then it’s back to business as usual (whatever that might be!).

Christmas Eve was declared a national holiday by the government earlier this week, so yesterday was an incredible day in downtown Port Vila. There were so many vehicles on the main street that it looked and sounded like an island version of New York City. At one point, the driver of a van simply laid on his horn and careened up onto the sidewalk scattering people in all directions. So, no matter where you are, there are crazy drivers.

There was also a big parade down the main street yesterday morning comprised primarily of several hundred young people who have converged on Efate for an annual Evangelical camporee. Youth are here from Tonga, Samoa and Fiji. I find it interesting that the event is planned over the Christmas holiday – it just seems odd to me that these kids aren’t home with their families. But, in talking to them, they seemed really excited to be here and weren’t dismayed at all at being away from home for the holidays.

Port Vila is known for its party atmosphere over Christmas and New Year’s. In fact, the Peace Corps really emphasizes that fact with a caution to all volunteers to be wary of going out at night. Tusker, the locally-brewed beer, pretty much takes over, and I guess it can get pretty crazy. The other thing I’ve noticed here is the prevalence of fireworks. In fact, there was a full-page spread in yesterday’s paper reminding everybody that fireworks are legal and inviting one and all to have a great time with them. Although I’ve seen a few pretty fireworks, I think the ones that are really popular aren’t things like fountains – instead, it’s the big cherry bomb-type that boom really loud. Last night my neighbors just down the hill had quite a round – it sounded like a small war was breaking out!!

I’ve seen very, very few Christmas decorations around. In fact, I think I’ve only seen one house with lights – and just a few small things on some of the lamp posts in downtown Port Vila. There are some decorations for sale in the stores – but nothing like you’d see in the states. In many ways, I kind of like it because it feels more like people are enjoying the spirit of Christmas and not getting so danged caught up in all the things that really don’t last anyway.

I’ll be house sitting from Christmas Day through New Year’s Day, so Jane – one of my Peace Corps colleagues – is joining me there for dinner on Christmas Day. The house I’m staying at actually has an oven, so we’re taking advantage of that by roasting a chicken with stuffing, baking a lemon cake for dessert, and making mashed potatoes and fresh green beans to round out the meal. And of course, you can count on the fact that we’ll be popping the cork on at least one bottle of French red wine somewhere along the way…it certainly makes cooking more fun!!

So, as I sit here on a balmy Christmas Eve afternoon, I’m reflecting on many of the Christmas joys that I’ve been blessed with throughout the years – and learning to savor and enjoy an island Christmas. Yes, in many ways it looks and feels different – but when Silent Night is played, it really reminds us that we’re all going to be looking at the same moon on Christmas Eve and that we’re really not that far apart in many ways.

MERRY CHRISTMAS…WITH LOVE…FROM ME TO YOU!!