KEEP THOSE CARDS AND LETTERS COMING!

There’s just a few little everyday things that remind me that I’m in a “third world” country…like no fresh milk…little or no police protection…the government being overturned about as frequently as the weather changes…and things we take for granted like mail delivery. Oh yes, I know, the USPS is anything but efficient – but it does provide home delivery 6 days a week – and, you can drop letters into those wonderful blue mailboxes stationed on corners throughout America.



In Vanuatu there is NO mail delivery and NO mailboxes in which to deposit your letters. If you want to mail something, you must take it to the post office here in town – no branches, just one main post office situated in downtown Port Vila. That’s not so bad for people in Port Vila, but if you are anywhere else on the island of Efate, it means that you have to send your mail with somebody who is coming into town and hope that they don’t forget to take it to the post office for you. In my case, I do get “home delivery” so to speak because I pick up my mail in the Volunteer’s Resource Room located at the Peace Corps office in Port Vila – just one block away from my office. But that’s only because a Peace Corps staff member goes to the Post Office and collects everything from the PMB 9097 mail pouch. Sounds easy, huh? In reality, it can be an arduous process. Regular mail is pretty easy – the staffer goes to the Post Office and brings the letters and cards back and distributes them. But if the Volunteer is located on an island other than Efate, the mail must either be sent by ship or plane to that island – and that can take weeks, months, or it may never reach its destination. Even in my case, I recently received a first class envelope that was postmarked November 12 – so it was 3.5 months in transit!! On the other hand, I’ve received some letters or cards within 14 days. So, there’s no way to figure out the transit time.


Packages are something else entirely. Upon receipt of a package at the Post Office, the postal clerk hand writes a notice of package delivery with the addressee’s name on it and places it in the Peace Corps mail bag. The staffer picks up mail twice weekly – Tuesday and Thursday – and upon receipt of notification of a package, the staffer then makes another trip to Customs. Sometimes the package has been cleared, and sometimes it hasn’t. So, they must often make a second trip. If the package has been opened and import duty is applied, the staffer pays the import fees and then deducts that amount from the Volunteer’s living allowance the following month. At long last the package is brought to the Peace Corps office and either placed in a mail cubicle if the volunteer is local or set aside for eventual shipment to an outer island. And whooeee, you’d better be ready to ransom your first child when paying the postage on a package. Typically a priority mail package will set you back at least $50-60, and in my case the most recent package cost almost $200 to get to me. However, it contains some things that I cannot get here, so I decided it was worth it. However….I’m still waiting and hoping that it arrives. Sometimes it never actually reaches the intended person…go figure!!


But after all that, I don’t want you to be discouraged – if you haven’t written lately, I’m anxiously checking my mail cube every day just in case one slim envelope from you has found its way across the Pacific to me. So, keep those cards and letters coming – it’s amazing how exciting it is to open a letter and read about what’s happening in your world. I got a letter recently from my sister, Ruby, describing how she was baking some snickerdoodles and I felt like I was in her kitchen talking to her.

So, in closing, my email is: csandatravels@gmail.com and my "snail mail" address is: 

Carla Sanda, PCV

Peace Corps

PMB 9097

Port Vila

Republic of Vanuatu

And - I promise to write back!

Mother Nature...Island Style

It’s been awhile since I’ve been on-line to update my blog. Things have been going along pretty well here – although since we’ve “talked” last, Mother Nature has been rearing her wild head quite a bit. There have been several major earthquakes…as well as a few little “teaser wannabes”. One of the earthquakes measured about 7.3 on the Richter scale and was quite sustained – since it came on the heels of one measuring nearly 7.0, I immediately timed it at 45 seconds or so. Now 45 seconds may seem pretty danged fast – but when the earth is literally rocking and rolling under your feet and things are going crash-bang in your house, it can feel like a pretty long time! At any rate, there was no serious damage from any of the quakes – and I’m getting quite accustomed to the periodic tremors that seem to roll through my part of the world.



We’ve also had 3 cyclones – the first one was Cyclone Vania and she was a real ripper. My apartment is up in the hills thankfully well above the ocean floor, so I didn’t have to worry about flooding from the torrential rains. But the gale-force winds were really something. A tree fell onto my patio roof and the yard around the house looked like a madman had raced through with a machete in each hand. Several banana trees were toppled, hundreds of unripe pamplemousse (grapefruit) were flung around the yard, and papayas were ripped from their trees as well. There were also several large pieces of sheet metal ripped from the roofs of nearby houses…or shacks. We are now in the midst of Cyclone Atu. But I think the worst of it is past Port Vila and the island of Efate. So far it has been nothing like Vania – but it is due to make landfall later today on the tiny island of Fatuna and perhaps even parts of Tanna. So, Atu hasn’t wheezed his last breath quite yet. One good thing is that for the first time in months there was a lovely cool wind through the night – so it was heavenly to not be sweating and looking for a dry spot in my bed!


Such is life in the rip-roaring, unpredictable south Pacific – and I haven’t even been here for six months yet!! Stay tuned!

Along the Lazy Tagabe

I’ve spent the last two weeks back in the classroom for follow-on training with my fellow business volunteers. The absolute best part of it all was reconnecting with everybody in Group 23 who had left in November for assignments throughout the archipelago – and the next best part was the opportunity to meet the business volunteers form Group 22 who came in for the final two days of training. It’s amazing how quickly one can bond with others when everybody is far away from home in some unfamiliar place, learning a new language, and trying to adjust to unexpected cultural idiosyncrasies. But the exciting thing is we’ve all made it nearly to the 6-month mark. We did lose 3 business volunteers within the first two months who returned to the states due to medical issues – but we’re still a tight little group of 8 who were excited to spend some time together. Each of us was asked to prepare a presentation of our project, the agency we’ve been working with, and the locale in which we’re serving. Clearly those of us based in Port Vila are very fortunate with creature comforts like electricity, indoor plumbing, and refrigeration – but after listening to our friends based in the islands, it’s also clear that we’re missing out on a unique village experience quite unlike anything else in the world.



Much of the two weeks was spent in the classroom, but one day we all headed out on a community cleanup project at the Tagabe River – the source of drinking water for Port Vila. Basically we donned shoes for the water – typically flip-flops or Chacos – and then waded into the river with trash bag and sticks in hand to pull all kinds of rubbish from the river. As we walked downstream filling up the bags, we encountered many local families along the river along with lots of kids or “pickininnies” out for a day of fun jumping into the river to cool off. It sure reminded me that we are in a place where time seems to stand still, where kids can run out of the house to explore and play and not return until dark, and where families have the freedom to just go to the river for a day of lazy enjoyment.


It’s days like this that make me question just how much development and “progress” should really be put into place in Vanuatu…progress can sometimes be anything but!

AELAN KRISMAS

MI WANTEM WISHEM YUFALA WAN BIGFALA MERI KRISMAS!!

(I want to wish you a big Merry Christmas!)

There are many wonderful things about an “aelan Krismas” (island Christmas)…there’s no snow to shovel…avocados are buttery and ripe…sweet, juicy pineapples are in season…and I can sit on my patio in the midst of huge, colorful ginger flowers and butterflies. Notice that I didn’t mention the huge mosquitoes, African snails, or flying ants – that’s because I’m trying not to notice those **!@@ things and instead count my blessings!!

ACTIV Association – the organization that I’m working for – has been holding its annual Krismas Eksibison in downtown Port Vila at the Alliance de Francais (a facility next to the French Embassy that features the work of local artisans). I’ve been working with a colleague to set up the displays of hand-woven baskets, bags, backpacks and mats – and other locally-grown or made things like honey, vanilla, soaps, nuts, and jewelry. So, it’s been kind of fun meeting lots of people – not just locals, but tourists primarily from Australia and New Zealand as they shop for Christmas gifts or souvenirs to take home. An Australian cruise line regularly comes to Vanuatu, so it’s been interesting meeting and talking with the folks from “down under”. Given the fact that Vanuatu is an international tax haven, there are a surprising number of business people from all corners of the world, so you really never know who you might bump into. The Eksibison (exhibition) continues through New Year’s Eve – and then it’s back to business as usual (whatever that might be!).

Christmas Eve was declared a national holiday by the government earlier this week, so yesterday was an incredible day in downtown Port Vila. There were so many vehicles on the main street that it looked and sounded like an island version of New York City. At one point, the driver of a van simply laid on his horn and careened up onto the sidewalk scattering people in all directions. So, no matter where you are, there are crazy drivers.

There was also a big parade down the main street yesterday morning comprised primarily of several hundred young people who have converged on Efate for an annual Evangelical camporee. Youth are here from Tonga, Samoa and Fiji. I find it interesting that the event is planned over the Christmas holiday – it just seems odd to me that these kids aren’t home with their families. But, in talking to them, they seemed really excited to be here and weren’t dismayed at all at being away from home for the holidays.

Port Vila is known for its party atmosphere over Christmas and New Year’s. In fact, the Peace Corps really emphasizes that fact with a caution to all volunteers to be wary of going out at night. Tusker, the locally-brewed beer, pretty much takes over, and I guess it can get pretty crazy. The other thing I’ve noticed here is the prevalence of fireworks. In fact, there was a full-page spread in yesterday’s paper reminding everybody that fireworks are legal and inviting one and all to have a great time with them. Although I’ve seen a few pretty fireworks, I think the ones that are really popular aren’t things like fountains – instead, it’s the big cherry bomb-type that boom really loud. Last night my neighbors just down the hill had quite a round – it sounded like a small war was breaking out!!

I’ve seen very, very few Christmas decorations around. In fact, I think I’ve only seen one house with lights – and just a few small things on some of the lamp posts in downtown Port Vila. There are some decorations for sale in the stores – but nothing like you’d see in the states. In many ways, I kind of like it because it feels more like people are enjoying the spirit of Christmas and not getting so danged caught up in all the things that really don’t last anyway.

I’ll be house sitting from Christmas Day through New Year’s Day, so Jane – one of my Peace Corps colleagues – is joining me there for dinner on Christmas Day. The house I’m staying at actually has an oven, so we’re taking advantage of that by roasting a chicken with stuffing, baking a lemon cake for dessert, and making mashed potatoes and fresh green beans to round out the meal. And of course, you can count on the fact that we’ll be popping the cork on at least one bottle of French red wine somewhere along the way…it certainly makes cooking more fun!!

So, as I sit here on a balmy Christmas Eve afternoon, I’m reflecting on many of the Christmas joys that I’ve been blessed with throughout the years – and learning to savor and enjoy an island Christmas. Yes, in many ways it looks and feels different – but when Silent Night is played, it really reminds us that we’re all going to be looking at the same moon on Christmas Eve and that we’re really not that far apart in many ways.

MERRY CHRISTMAS…WITH LOVE…FROM ME TO YOU!!

GROCERY SHOPPING

Grocery shopping can be quite an adventure here in Port Vila. Now you have to understand that I was realllllly spoiled when I lived in Denver. All I had to do was walk out my front door, make a right – and walk about a block to a wonderful, full-service Albertson’s store – not to mention Lowry Liquors just down the street – as well as the Savory Spice Shop just across the street from Lowry Liquors. Oh, and let’s not forget the phenomenal purchasing power I had at COSTCO!! Well, things are a little different here – not necessarily better or worse…just different!



First of all, my shopping habits have drastically changed. Since I have no car and I’m about a 40-minute walk from the grocery store, I shop several times each week – usually after work just before heading home. Several times a week I walk down to the “Mama’s Market” along the Port Vila seafront. The Mama’s Market is open round-the-clock from 6 am Monday through noon on Saturday. It’s called the “Mama’s Market” because it is a huge open-air market comprised of tables laden with fresh produce grown in the rural villages of Vanuatu. Families harvest only their finest produce – and only the produce that is in excess of what they need to feed their families – and then the Mamas bring it into “Vila” to sell. I love to go to the market because I have a chance of seeing some of the Mamas from my village of Ekipe. The villages take turns to provide an equal opportunity for everybody – so Ekipe is only there about every third week. At the Mama’s Market you can find just about everything that grows in the islands: bunches of bananas for about $1, island cabbage, manioc, tomatoes, cucumbers, pineapple, mangoes, papaya (popo), taro, grapefruit (pamplemousse), kumala (kind of like a sweet potato), and sometimes regular potatoes. The prices are typically much better than you can find in the regular supermarket here – plus you’re assured of a big smile and “tankieu tumas” from one of the Mamas. When the Mamas come to town for the market they stay there round the clock – sleeping in shifts, babies in tow. So, it really is quite a commitment – and it seems to be something they really look forward to. Of course, the big bonus is you get fresh, reasonably-priced produce – and everything is organic. You can also buy an island breakfast (bread, egg, coffee) for about $3 – or the ever-present lap-lap for lunch or dinner. Sometimes they have large, whole fried fish for about $3 too. So, it’s quite a sight to behold.


For other things I head to the AuBon Marche. There are several around town – two very close to my office, and another one -- known as AuBon Marche #2 -- about a 20-minute walk away. Of course, the one that’s a little further away is the best, so I usually hike up there. I’ve never seen a grocery ad or flyer in the paper, nor have I ever seen ANYTHING listed as being on SALE in the store! AuBon Marche #2 (AuBon Numbatwo) is kind of like a mini super-Target. It has everything from bolts of fabric to fresh meats to clothing to French wines. I bought nearly everything I needed for my apartment at the AuBon #2. However, I stopped short when it came to any kind of appliance. As an example, crock pots are $140.00, toasters anywhere from $85-100, and a small Teflon frying pan was $35. So, I have a small frying pan, a saucepan, and one slightly larger pot to cook in. But, they do me just fine!


I was just there yesterday evening to do some shopping, and on my walk up there I thought I’d look to see if they had cranberry juice. It’s been so hot here that I thought a glass of cold cranberry juice in the morning would be great. Well, the good news is they had the Ocean Spray cranberry juice – but the bad news is that it was nearly $12.50 per bottle. No, not $2.50 – but $12.50!! Suffice it to say, that I settled instead for an Australian brand of tomato juice! But on the other hand, I can buy fresh croissants (REAL croissants) for 40 cents each, as well as French Au Pain Chocolat for about 70 cents each. Not to mention the fact that I can get a package of 12 mosquito coils to burn in my apartment for just 70 cents!! On my first visit, I decided to buy some sliced ham in the deli – but I had to pull out my cell phone to do a quick conversion from kilograms to pounds so that I knew how much to ask for. The other surprising thing is that eggs are not refrigerated here. They are simply on the grocery shelf – and if you plan to use them within a week or so, you don’t have to refrigerate them when you get them home. Go figure!! There are no dairies in Vanuatu, so all milk is the boxed milk on the grocery shelf – but it tastes like regular milk once it’s chilled. Good canned tuna is about $7.00 per can – but organic beef and veal is comparably priced to what’s available in the states. That’s because the beef is produced within the islands. So, the import taxes really are a killer on most grocery items. I’m beginning to understand the value of lap-lap in the villages – no need to shop, just go to the garden and you have dinner!!

CLEAN FEET

I was sitting here in my little Port Vila apartment last night looking at my feet and realized just how much I miss clean feet….yes, that wasn’t a typo, and I haven’t totally lost my mind…oh what I wouldn’t give to simply have clean feet on a day-to-day basis!! Just a few days before leaving home I treated myself to a manicure and pedicure for my big adventure – little did I realize that I definitely should have appreciated those sparkling toes – and toenails - much more than I did!!



It all started in Ekipe Village. First of all, the only shoes anybody wears here are flip-flops, Chacos, or something similar. I do have a pair of hiking shoes, but on a day-to-day basis, it’s just too darned hot – and they would be wet most of the time, so day in and day out it’s flip-flops for me too! Anyway, in Ekipe there were no sidewalks – just overgrown or muddy dirt paths throughout the village. Oh yes, I scrubbed my feet – but without really hot water, they never really looked clean. So, when I moved into Port Vila, I thought one of the “perks” would be clean feet! What I didn’t realize is that much of my walking is still on muddy paths or shoulders – or on dirty, flooded sidewalks and streets. So, I’m still stuck with dirty feet no matter what!


So, as a result I have taken to soaking my big Size 10s in a bucket filled with hot water, laundry detergent – and a shot of bleach just for good measure. So, I soak and soak – and scrub with both a nail brush and regular scrub brush. Last night I was so excited to see clean feet emerge from the bucket that I actually texted my fellow Peace Corps friend, Jane, to tell her that my feet were the cleanest they’d been in 3 months. She asked that I send a picture so she, too, could see what clean feet really look like! Ahhh, the things we take for granted.


Anyway, it’s back in the bucket with my toes tonight to start all over again…but on the other hand, while my feet are soaking I can watch the sunset with a glass of red wine – and watch the papayas ripen on the tree just outside my bedroom window. So, i don't know...maybe clean feet are just over-rated after all!!!

PIS KOP PROJEK (PEACE CORPS PROJECTS)

The Peace Corps divides its projects into three areas of expertise: Education, Community Health, and Business. During our pre-service training, we typically had 4 days of training common to all areas (Bislama class, safety & security, policies and procedures, culture) with 1 day when we would split up to focus on work / training specific to our project area.



The Education Project is known as SHREP – Strengthening Human Resources through Education Programs. SHREP volunteers work throughout Vanuatu educating students, building the capacity of teachers, strengthening institutions / developing educational resources, and developing communities. This could entail anything and everything from hands-on teaching at elementary, secondary, or university; writing curriculum that can be implemented by teachers throughout the country; provide teacher training; or perhaps even working with an institution to gain certification. Group 23 has 15 SHREP volunteers.


The Community Health Project has volunteers in both the Shefa and Penama provinces of Vanuatu. Volunteers support health and hygiene programs throughout the country by working with village health workers; strengthening village health committees and aid post committees; organizing and facilitating health awareness workshops; and working with village water committees to improve water systems throughout the country. Group 23 has 14 community health volunteers.


The Business Project is known as the PEACE (Provincial Economic and Community Empowerment) Project. PEACE volunteers work with existing organizations to meet their objectives and achieve self-sufficiency; assist Provincial Area Administrators conduct community assessments; organize and conduct training and workshops; and assist and train community leaders. Group 23 started with 12 volunteers. However, four people have either been medically separated or chose to return to America, so there are currently 8 volunteers within this project – including me.


I started work as a PEACE volunteer on November 8 with ACTIV Association – a non-government organization (similar to a non-profit in the U.S.).  ACTIV stands for "Alternative Communities Trade in Vanuatu and works to market and sell Vanuatu products. Some of these products are being grown or produced within areas currently served by other Peace Corps volunteers, so it’s likely that I’ll have business as well as personal contact with volunteers scattered throughout the islands. One of the major things ACTIV is considering is certification as an organic cocoa bean exporter – which will be a major effort to complete. But ACTIV also works to market and sell vanilla beans; pepper; various oils; honey; hand woven mats, baskets, and portfolios; and even grass skirts. Since starting, I’ve been busy completing a product inventory and getting ready for the annual Christmas Exhibition which runs the last week in November and the first week in December. Over the next two years I look forward to working with the organization to develop and implement its strategic plan, streamline day-to-day business activities, explore opportunities for funding, and seek out ways to improve visibility within the community.


The office is about a 25-minute walk from my apartment, and I work 5 days a week from 8 am to 4:30 pm every day. However, like other businesses in Port Vila, the office is closed each day from 11:30-1:30, so I get a wonderful mid-day break to do whatever! The office is only a block away from the Peace Corps office, which is great because I can drop in to check on mail, packages, and work on my Blog and Facebook – or just hang out with other volunteers. The Medical Office is also there, so it’s easy for me to pick up my favorite new fragrance: Eau de Deet!!